Tech Info
       SANTHUFF SHOCKS  



Santhuff Shocks are available in many different configurations, just a sample of the many models are shown here, like our Coil Over Double Adjustable Shocks along with various OEM and race mount double adjustable front shocks. If you don't see your shock listed, contact one of our dealers, chances are we can make them.

Santhuff Drag Racing Shocks were designed from scratch for drag racing only and feature patented valving not found in other brands of shocks.


100-1340 Double Adjustable Coilover Shock 19 1/2" Extended 6" Travel

Rear Double Adjustable Coil Over Shocks
Custom Lengths Available

PN Description Weight
Price

2200  Aluminum Body 21" Fully Extended Double Adj. Coilover Shock. 8 lbs
12 oz
$1650.00pr
2000 Aluminum Body 19" Fully Extended Double Adj. Coilover Shock. 8 lbs
8 oz
2100 Aluminum Body 16 1/2" Fully Extended Double Adj. Coilover Shock.  
2150 Aluminum Body 14 1/2" Fully Extended Double Adj. Coilover Shock.  
 
Leaf Spring Rears.  
2104 Aluminum Body 23" Fully Extended Double Adj. Shock.   $1400.00pr
2103 Aluminum Body 21" Fully Extended Double Adj. Shock.  
2001 Aluminum Body 19 " Fully Extended Double Adj. Shock.  
2101 Aluminum Body 16 " Fully Extended Double Adj. Shock.  
 

   
100_1341 Front Double Adjustable Coil Over shock - 68-74 Nova/ 67=79 Camaro

Front Double Adjustable Coil Over Shocks
Note: Shock tower must be strengthened for coilover use

PN Description Weight
Price

2160C  Aluminum Body 4" Travel Double Adj. Coilover Shock.
7 lbs
12 oz
$1650.00pr
2160CL  Aluminum Body 5" Travel Double Adj. Coilover Shock. 8 lbs
2 oz
2220  T-Bar Mount Ki
$100.00pr



 

   
100_1339 Late Model Camaro Front Double Adjustable Shock


Front Double Adjustable Shocks

Aluminum Body Non-Coilover Shock Some modifications to lower a-arm may be required for clearance.

PN Description Weight
Price

2160  Front Double Adjustable
~
$1400.00pr
2160L  5" Travel Double Adj. Adjustable
~
2160XL  6" Travel Double Adj. Adjustable
~
2220 T-Bar Mount Kit

$100.00pr

 

   
100_1339 Late Model Camaro Front Double Adjustable Shock

4th Gen Camaro Front
Double Adjustable Coil Over Shocks

Aluminum Body Coilover Shock for the 4th Gen Camaro.

PN Description Weight
Price

2160F  Front Double Adjustable Coil Over for 4th Gen Camaro with T-bar & Eyelet Upper Mount Conversion

$1850.00pr

 

   
100_1339 Late Model Camaro Front Double Adjustable Shock

Chevy II Coil Over Conversion


PN Description Weight
Price

2180  Front Double Adjustable Coil Over for Chevy II Conversions4th Gen Camaro with T-bar & Billet Upper Mount Conversion

$2000.00pr

   
Challenger Drag Pack Shocks

Challenger Drag Pack Front and Rear Double Adjustable

PN Description Weight
Price

CH01F  Front Aluminum Body Double Adj. Coilover Shock w/ spherical top mount.

$2000.00pr


CH02R  Rear Aluminum Body Double Adj. Shock.

$1500.00pr
CHRM Rear Shock Spherical Mounts

$125.00pr



 





         SANTHUFF STRUTS
100-1024

Tube Chassis Coil Over Struts

PN Description Weight
Price

1140 2" Travel Single Adjustable Tube Chassis Strut
$2850.00pr
1140K 2" Travel Single Adjustable Tube Chassis Strut Kit (Control Arm Kit and Springs Included)

 

$3100.00pr
1140D 2" Travel Double Adjustable Tube Chassis Strut  
$3100.00pr
1140DK 2" Travel Double Adjustable Tube Chassis Strut Kit (Control Arm Kit and Springs Included)

 

$3350.00pr
1100 3" Travel Single Adjustable Tube Chassis Strut 17lbs 12oz
$2850.00pr
1100K 3" Travel Single Adjustable Tube Chassis Strut Kit (Control Arm Kit and Springs Included)

 
$3100.00pr
1100D 3" Travel Double Adjustable Tube Chassis Strut  
$3100.00pr
1100DK 3" Travel Double Adjustable Tube Chassis Strut Kit (Control Arm Kit and Springs Included)

 

 
$3350.00pr
1150 4.5" Travel Single Adjustable Tube Chassis Strut 19lbs 12oz
$3000.00pr
1150K 4.5" Travel Single Adjustable Tube Chassis Strut Kit (Control Arm Kit and Springs Included)

 

 
$3250.00pr
1150D 4.5" Travel Double Adjustable Tube Chassis Strut  
$3250.00pr
1150DK 4.5" Travel Double Adjustable Tube Chassis Strut Kit (Control Arm Kit and Springs Included)

 

 
$3500.00pr

 

**Weights are per pair.
   
100-1009

8 Degree Superstock Style Coil Over Strut w/Spindles

PN Description Weight
Price

1118       18 3/8" Superstock Style Coil Over Strut, Single Adjustable 24lbs $3000.00pr
1118K       18 3/8" Superstock Style Coil Over Strut Kit, Single Adjustable (Control Arm Kit and Springs Included)

 

24lbs $3250.00pr
1118D       18 3/8" Superstock Style Coil Over Strut, Double Adjustable 24lbs $3250.00pr
1118DK       18 3/8" Superstock Style Coil Over Strut Kit, Double Adjustable (Control Arm Kit and Springs Include)

 

24lbs $3500.00pr
1116       16 1/2" Superstock Style Coil Over Strut, Single Adjustable low profile 21lbs 2oz $3000.00pr
1116K       16 1/2" Superstock Style Coil Over Strut Kit, Single Adjustable (Control Arm Kit and Springs Included)

 

24lbs $3250.00pr
1116D       16 1/2" Superstock Style Coil Over Strut, Double Adjustable low profile 21lbs 2oz $3250.00pr
1116DK       16 1/2" Superstock Style Coil Over Strut Kit, Double Adjustable (Control Arm Kit and Springs Include)

 

24lbs $3500.00pr

 

**Weights are per pair
   
100-1049

15 degree Superstock Style Coil Over Strut w/Spindles
For '04 Mustang & earlier & '82-'92 Camaro. Requires K member & chassis shop construction.

PN Description Weight
Price

1118*15       18 3/8" 15 Degree Superstock Style Coil Over Strut, Single Adjustable 24lbs $3000.00pr
1118*15K       18 3/8" 15 Degree Superstock Style Coil Over Strut Kit, Single Adjustable (Control Arm Kit and Springs Included)

 

24lbs $3250.00pr
1118*15D       18 3/8" 15 Degree Superstock Style Coil Over Strut, Double Adjustable 24lbs $3250.00pr
1118*15DK       18 3/8" 15 Degree Superstock Style Coil Over Strut Kit, Double Adjustable (Control Arm Kit and Springs Include)

 

24lbs $3500.00pr
1116*15       16 1/2" 15 Degree Superstock Style Coil Over Strut, Single Adjustable low profile 21lbs 2oz $3000.00pr
1116*15K       16 1/2" 15 Degree Superstock Style Coil Over Strut Kit, Single Adjustable (Control Arm Kit and Springs Included)

 

24lbs $3250.00pr
1116*15D       16 1/2" 15 Degree Superstock Style Coil Over Strut, Double Adjustable low profile 21lbs 2oz $3250.00pr
1116*15DK       16 1/2" 15 Degree Superstock Style Coil Over Strut Kit, Double Adjustable (Control Arm Kit and Springs Include) 24lbs $3500.00pr

 

**Weights are per pair

 

 

 

   
100-1021

GM Spindle Stock Suspension Design
Includes 4 balls, sockets & snap rings

PN Description Weight
Price

1500 Early GM Spindle X/F Body   $1250.00pr
1501   2000 era Camaro Light Weight Spindle

 

15lbs $1250.00pr
1502   Custom Length Spindle

 

$1400.00pr
**Weights are per pair.

 

   
100-1048

'82-'92 Camaro Bolt in Super Stock Struts
(
Uses stock spindle)

PN Description Weight
Price

1120   '82-'92 Camaro
Bolt in Super Stock Strut Single Adjustable w/ Coil Over
15lbs 4oz
$1750.00pr
1120D   '82-'92 Camaro
Bolt in Super Stock Strut Double Adjustable w/ Coil Over

 

15lbs 8oz
$2000.00pr
-COK

Non Coil Over Kit

 

 
-$250.00pr

 

 
100-1048

5th Gen Camaro Bolt in Super Stock Struts
(
Uses stock spindle)

PN Description Weight
Price

1124   2010 Camaro
Bolt in Super Stock Strut Single Adjustable w/ Coil Over & Mount
$2000.00pr
1124D   2010 Camaro
Bolt in Super Stock Strut Double Adjustable w/ Coil Over & Mount
$2250.00pr

 

**Weights are per pair

 

   
100-0904

Bolt in Mustang 2005 and Newer Coil Over Struts

PN Description Weight
Price

1122     Bolt in Mustang 2005 and Newer Coil Over Strut, Single Adjustable w/ Billet Upper Mount

 

 
$2000.00pr
1122D

Bolt in Mustang 2005 and Newer Coil Over Strut, Double Adjustable w/ Billet Upper Mount

 

 
$2250.00pr
1126

Bolt in Mustang 2015 and Newer Coil Over Strut, Single Adjustable w/ Billet Upper Mount

 

 
$2000.00pr
1126D

Bolt in Mustang 2015 and Newer Coil Over Strut, Double Adjustable w/ Billet Upper Mount

 

 
$2250.00pr

 

 

 

 

   
100-1017

1990-2004 Mustang Bolt In Struts
(
Uses stock spindle)

PN Description Weight
Price

1121 2004-1990 Mustang Bolt In Strut, Single Adjustable w/ Coil Over 15lbs 8oz $1750.00pr
1121D 2004-1990 Mustang Bolt In Strut, Double Adjustable w/ Coil Over

 

16lbs $2000.00pr
-COK

Non Coil Over

 
-$250.00pr

 

**Weights are per pair

 

   

Strut Control Arms

PN Description
Price

1308   8 Degree Control Arm Kit (pair) - Partially welded 4130 tubing, short arm 8* off 90 for 4" & higher frame rail cars. Rod Ends not included  
$275.00
1309A

90 Degree Kit (pair)

 
$275.00
1312

Control Arm Kit (unwelded)
Contains: 4 pcs 18" long 1" x .058" 4130 CM Tubing, 4 Tubing Adapters 1/2"-20", 2 clevises, 2 tabs, 2 control arm sockets, Aurora Bearing COM-10T Heim Ends, 2 snap rings

 

  $190.00
1310 Aurora Bearing COM-10T Heim End for Control Arm Eyes (each)   $20.00
1311 Control Arm Sockets for Heim End (pr).

 

  $26.00

 


High Energy Springs


 
 

2 1/2 ID Coil Over Springs

PN Description Weight
Price

2.5SPG Coil Over Springs available from 5" to 14" Free Length - all rates available (pair)

$120.00

5" & 5 1/2" OD Front Coil Springs
Available for 67-69 Camaro, 68-74 Nova and 64-72 Chevelle/Monte Carlo. 18" Free Length. Call to determine the correct spring for your application.
Get the ride height you want without chopping on your springs!
PN Description Weight
Price

5SPG Racing "Hi Energy" Front Springs for Stock Suspension Cars - 150, 180, 200, 225, and 250 lb in stock (pair)

$189.00

Spring Compressor
Make compressing our stock springs a whole lot easier. With this compressor just insert thru upper shock mounting hole, thread on hook end and crank away. Once compressed, install lower arm and release tension and remove.

PN Description Weight
Price

SPGCOM Stock spring compressor for 5" and 5.5" front springs

$100.00


SPGCBM Stock spring compressor for 5" and 5.5" front springs, with bearing.

$130.00



Shock and Strut Tuning Guide

Santhuff’s Double Adjustable Coil Over Shocks and Struts will not cure all your chassis problems, but they do provide enough adjustability to resolve many issues.  Assuming the rest of your chassis is set up correctly, they act as a tuning aid to adapt a good race to constantly changing race conditions.  Are your four link settings set about 46-50 inches out and 4-8 inches high?  Are the wheelie bar heights set up properly for your application?  Are the front-end caster, camber and toe set for high speed racing?  Have you had your chassis scaled on four corner wheel scales and was it driving straight before you installed your new Santhuff Shocks or Struts?  All of these items must be correct or you’ll be chasing too many unknowns at the same time.  Without the rest of the car being correctly set up, your Santhuff Shocks will end up being just another variable in your race cars suspension.  They can’t make a bad car good, but they can make a good car GREAT!

                                                 

An important variable to be managed is the track itself.  Properly reading the track is a skill you must develop to determine proper shock settings.  One of the hardest things to judge is whether the track is "going away" or staying consistent.  When the sun beats down on the track surface, heating it up and causing oils to rise to the surface, it will give you a sticky, but greasy feeling when you twist your foot on it.  You will feel your shoe twist on top of the track surface like rubber cement that is still wet.  Another signal to look for: as cars launch in the heat of the day, often the rubber will peel up, causing the track to develop bald spots.  Well-intentioned crew members will then line the driver up to avoid these bald spots, which at the same time takes the car out of the groove. This may cause the car to drive to the right or left as it leaves the line.  If the bald spot is fairly small and the tires are still going to be on mostly sticky rubber, an experienced crew person can tell if there is more traction by staying in the groove rather than straddling the bald spots.

Changing track conditions are fairly predictable.  By using an infrared temperature gun, your crew can check the temperature of the track surface.  Traction will be optimal from about 80 to 100 degrees Fahrenheit.  If you stay in that range you may not have to move far, if at all, from your initial settings.  But if track temperature rises too far above or falls too far below that range, traction will suffer and you will need to adjust your car to keep it consistent.

Before you can properly turn knobs and make the correct adjustments, you need to first know the product you have just installed. Santhuff Shocks are calibrated from the extreme tight. This is true on both the top and bottom adjusters. Every time you make an adjustment, it is recommended you go back to dead tight and start there. Many times people will make a change and never write it down. When they forget where they were, they cannot make a correct change.

 

Let’s turn now to the basics of shock adjustments. The shock absorber is solely used to dampen or slow down the motion of the suspension.  The shock has two motions: extension and compression, both of which are independently adjustable, hence the name Double Adjustable.  Santhuff Shocks must be mounted in a vertical position with the shaft at the top; they cannot be mounted upside down.

                       

Extension, or "rebound" as it is also known, is the first movement in both the front and rear shocks.  Extension adjustments change the dampening force it takes to pull the shock apart or make it longer.  Santhuff Suspension Specialties recommends a baseline adjustment for your shocks based on the horsepower your race car produces.  Our experience indicates that if you find yourself straying too far away from these settings, you might have other issues with your combination.

 

An important question to answer is when to make a change and how far to go with any adjustments. The most common mistake an inexperienced racer will make is going the wrong way with their shock settings.  For instance, when a car is working fairly well on a good race track, and suddenly the track starts going away due to heat, bald spots or for whatever reason, the race crew has a tendency to stiffen the shocks in order to take some hit out of the chassis.  In reality, this is totally the wrong way to go with your shock adjustment.  You will want to loosen up the top extension 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn at a time for stud mounted shocks or struts.  For bolt on shocks, the adjustments are made in sweeps.  You will go one sweep at a time until you master this part. 

When the track conditions become unfavorable, the car doesn't think it has enough power or is too front heavy to keep the rear tires planted. The front end will drop and proper weight transfer is lost. The end result is tire spin. You will hear it said, "the car tried to hook and then five feet out it totally blew the tires off."

The real answer is, the car needed more "hit".  You will sometimes notice, when lower horse powered cars can not get down the track with out spinning, faster, high horse powered cars are not having any problems.  The proper shock adjustment may be just what you need to win that round of eliminations when the track is at the worse condition of the day.  This is why shock settings are not a "set it and forget it" or "I found the sweet spot!" type of adjustment.

When the power of the engine is applied to the rear end housing, the pinion climbs the ring gear.  As this happens, the rear end rotates and plants the tires into the ground in a downward motion. This motion causes both front and rear shocks to extend. If it happens too violently, the extension needs to be tightened up and made stiffer.  We usually consider the rear extension to be a coarse adjustment.  The front extension adjustment can be used for fine adjustments.  The way of knowing this is by watching the car on a video camera at a 45-degree angle from the back. You should to watch it in slow motion and be able to go frame by frame to determine if the slicks are being driven into the ground. If not, loosening up the extension on either the front or the rear shocks would be your solution to make the car hit harder. Another good indicator is watching the wheelie bar marks on the track.  By painting the wheelie bar wheels, you can examine the paint marks and tell how hard the chassis is hitting the tires and if it is planting the tires or unloading it.  If the marks are light and long, then your hitting them just right and not putting too much stress on the bars.  If the marks are short and bright, you are hitting the tires too hard and not keeping them planted.

This leads us to the opposite adjustment of Double Adjustable Shocks, the compression.  The compression, or "bump" as it is also known, is the shocks resistance to being compressed together.  Compression is adjusted by turning the knob at the bottom of the shock.  With that being said, if the tire is not staying planted long enough, the problem is the rear shocks compression adjustment is allowing the weight transfer to unload and should be tightened up slightly.  By losing weight transfer, the front end will drop and the rear tires will begin to lose traction and spin.  If the front end starts to go into a wheel stand and the rear slicks continue to have too much tire speed and continue to spin, this would also require the bump to be made tighter.

 

The front shock compression setting is mainly going to keep the front end from settling too fast.  We can achieve this by keeping the front bump adjustment very tight.  This very tight adjustment is mainly only used ton race cars that wheel stand over two or three feet in the air.  Bump adjustment can make the landing from these high wheel stands smooth and gentle. This will help from prevent the car from crashing down and smashing the oil pan, headers or whatever else is hanging low under the front end. This is how Super Stock Eliminator cars land and eliminate the bounce that once was common with high wheelies in the past.  Santhuff Front Shocks and Struts have become very popular for this reason.  On cars that keep the front tires on the ground, this adjustment is usually going to be in a much more loose position than previously described.  For these cars, by keeping the bump loosened up, it will allow the shock to do its job on rough track surfaces, just like they were intended to do on your daily street driver.

We hope you enjoy your new SANTHUFF Suspension Specialties products.  Our goal is to lower the incrementals on your time slips and help you turn on the win light more often. 

                                       






Santhuff Lower shock mounts

When Installing a set of Santhuff Double Adjustable front shocks on a 67-69 Camaro or Nova, we recommend using the  Rineharts Performance lower shock mount kit.  This will require the shock hole to be cut or ground allowing the large Santhuff body to pass through the control arm with enough clearance.  The lower shock mounts then get welded under the control arm with a grade 8, 1/2"socket head bolt.  This allows the shock to be mounted securely and safely.  The kit comes with a 1" and a 2" bushing to move the adjusting knob away from the control arm and keeping it from any damage.  The bushings can be cut as nessesary  The photos below, show the finished product. 

 






Aluminum Double Adjustable Rear Shock Installation Procedure

    1. Set shock in vertical position.
    2. Turn rebound adjuster (aluminum eye w/window) clockwise until it stops.
    3. Turn rebound adjuster 12 windows counter-clockwise.
    4. Turn bump adjuster hex knob clockwise until stops.
    5. Turn bump adjuster hex knob counter-clockwise 10 clicks.
    6. Stroke shock 5 or 6 times to be able to prime the valving to avoid cavitation (After laying horizontal the fluid is displaced).
    7. Turn rebound adjuster clockwise until it stops again. The shock is then at it's full firm rebound (extension) position.
    8. Turn bump adjuster hex knob clockwise until it stops. The shocks bump adjuster is then at it's full firm (compression) position also.
    9. Do not turn the rebound adjuster more than 20 windows (O-ring damage could occur).
    10. The bump adjuster hex knob can only be turned out to it's limitation of 12 clicks counterclockwise.

Baseline Setting for Aluminum Body Rear Shocks:

The following adjustments are based with all sweeps or clicks starting from a full tight adjustment (clockwise) position. All Rear shock baselines are with an IC of about 46"-48" long and 6"-8" high. Extra long, short or low IC will not react the same.

Cars Horsepower Rebound (On Top) Bump (On Bottom)

3000 HP 3 sweeps out 7 clicks out
2500 HP

4 sweeps out

8 clicks out
2000 HP 5 sweeps out 9 clicks out
1500 HP 6 sweeps out 10 clicks out
1000 HP 7 sweeps out 11 clicks out
500 HP 8 sweeps out 12 clicks out






Aluminum Front Shock and strut Installation Procedure

    1. Set strut shock in vertical position
    2. Turn top adjustable 3/8" hex nut clockwise until nut stops.
    3. Turn top adjustable nut counter-clockwise 3 turns.
    4. If double adjustable, turn lower bump adjuster hex knob fully clockwise. Then turn out counter-clockwise 10 clicks.*
    5. Stroke strut shock 5 or 6 times to prime the valving and avoid cavitation (After laying horizontal the fluid is displaced).
    6. Turn top adjustable nut fully clockwise until nut stops again. At that position the strut shock is at it's full firm rebound (extension) position.
    7. Turn lower bump adjuster hex knob clockwise until it stops to bring it back to the full firm (compression) position.
    8. The strut shock is at it's softest position on extension when the top adjustable nut is turned 3 1/4 turns counterclockwise. O-ring damage could occur if turned any more than 3 1/4 turns.
    9. The strut shock is at it's softest on the bump (compression) when the adjuster hex knob is turned counter-clockwise 12 clicks.**

Aluminum Body Front Shock Baseline Settings

Cars Horsepower On Top (extension) Bottom (compression)

3000 HP 1/2 turn 12 clicks
2500 HP

3/4 turn

12 clicks
2000 HP 1 turn 10 clicks
1500 HP 1 1/2 turn 8-9 clicks
1000 HP 2 turns 8 clicks
500 HP 3 turns 7 clicks

*If trying to delay return of front weight transfer start at 5 clicks from full tight. 4 to 6 clicks is also a good tight adjustment to use for a car that wheelstands very high and may help save your headers.

**
Rineharts Performance valveing is used on Super Stock style cars.  By using this softer extension valving, you should start out one less turn than the above chart shows on your top adjustment

***Bump is same as a single adjustable shock at 10 clicks from full tight


Doing a Consistent Burnout

One of the hardest processes for many new drivers to learn is the burnout.  When executed properly, the burnout almost looks like the car does it by
itself.  I get more questions from new drivers about the burnout than any other subject.
Here’s how I do a burnout:
 
The first step is to slowly roll through the water box and stop right at the edge of the damp area. I do not recommend stopping in the water and spinning the tires to clean them off.  I see a lot of racers do this
and they end up with water dripping from the wheel tubs onto the track surface. 
 
The second step, after you are in position, is to pump the brake pedal 2 or 3 times holding about 500 psi of brake pressure and to energize your line lock with the line lock switch closed and the transmission in the proper gear for starting a burnout (consult your transmission builder for this info).
 
Now you are ready to make some smoke and noise. Quickly open the throttle to a few hundred RPM's above your converter flash point (about 5500 - 6500 RPM's) and shift into high gear.  Hold the engine RPM's at your desired point and you will hear the engine speed start to come down and the tires will have a haze of smoke (or more) coming off them.  At this point, release the line lock switch and hold the engine RPM's steady and drive through the burn out till you are out of the water area and back out of the throttle.  Then quickly place the trans in neutral and clean out the engine. 
 
Practice your burnouts a few times and it’ll become easy.  But no matter how easy it gets – it’s always fun!  








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